Drive
east from Malaga on the CN340 and you reach Nerja - the most easterly
major resort on the Costa del Sol and 50kms from Malaga. The climate
here is said to be the finest on the whole Costa del Sol thanks to the
mountains that form a backdrop to the town and protect it. Tourism here
is equalled by farming and fishing as the main sources of income of the
residents who number around 20,000. It is an ideal family resort
containing, as it does, 9 beaches, a bustling town of shops, bars and
restaurants and few opportunities for the young to misbehave, containing
no discos that we could find but boasting bingo, a jazz club, and
several flamenco shows. Nerja has retained its traditional Spanish
character with white buildings, alleyways and cobbled streets. For many
years the rule was that no building could exceed 3 stories though in
recent years higher buildings are beginning to appear at the edge of
town. The historic centre was constructed around 1487 of which the
Balcon de Europa is part - formerly a castle built in the 11th century
it is now a viewing point above the sea. In one of the oldest buildings
in Nerja is Spain's largest second-hand English book shop - The Nerja
Book Centre & English Video Club on C/Granada (tel: 95 252 09 08) - a
veritable goldmine of reading for those who prefer the quiet life. The
beaches are safe and west to east they are playas El Playazo, de la
Torrecilla, del Salon, La Caletilla, de Calahonda, del Chorrillo, de
Carabeo, de Carabeillo, and de Burriana. The beaches consist of a coarse
sand and nearby are bars and cafes and the town is never more than a
walk away. A short distance to the east of Nerja are the Nerja caves,
well worth a visit and also the Capistrano urbanization well advertised
in Britain when it was being built. A small resort to the east of Nerja
and across the road from the caves is Maro. This is a tiny oasis in the
middle of hundreds of hectares of agriculture - consisting mainly in the
growing of vegetables.
We
first heard of this unusual village in an edition of Channel 4's "A
Place in the Sun" so we went to investigate. It is only a few miles from
Nerja and there is a regular bus service. If you visit you must buy the
guide book (any bookshop in Nerja), or there are guided tours twice a
day. The guide book is the cheapest option and you are then not limited
to the time you visit (guided tours are daily, Monday to Friday at
10.15am and 12.30pm except August). It would take too long here to
describe this very pretty and historic village and all that there is to
see. The guide book has all the details for a walking tour of about an
hour unless you stop on your way around for a drink or snack. The
village has existed for 5000 years and between the 8th and 15th
centuries, Jews, Muslims and Christians lived in harmony. Only one road
can be used by wheeled traffic as the rest consist of a series of steps.
There are 12 illustrated tiled plaques that you will pass on your walk
telling the history of Frigiliana in Spanish but there is a translation
in the guide book. Among the things you will see - a sugar molasses
factory that has existed for over 400 years, still in production; a 2000
year old Roman fountain that has never run dry in 2000 years; a
medieval Muslim fountain, the site where trials took place during the
Inquisition involving whipping, burning at the stake and being made to
swallow hotlead!; the shops where Malaga wine is made and sold including
free tastings; although all the houses are painted white there is one
that has never been painted for over 50 years - find out why!; the hand
of Fatima door knockers on hundreds of doors - find out why! Sounds
interesting doesn't it? If you visit Nerja during your stay on the Costa
del Sol, make sure you make a detour to Frigiliana.
